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Monday, April 11, 2011

The Dogs of Venice

0 comments Posted by pece at 6:35 AM

Everyone has at least heard of John Ruskin's The Stones of Venice, a 3 volume treatise on Venetian art and architecture, even if they haven't read the mountainous tomes...

BEAR and I decided we must write, The Dogs of Venice. Naturalement we must first finish The Dogs of Paris!

At least Venetian dogs are sensibly dressed (if dressed at all) for potential rain unlike their ridiculously overdressed Parisien brothers and sisters...

And who needs a leash when there are no cars to do damage?

If you stop in any museum in Venice like the Accademia for example, you'll be accosted by even more dogs.

Though mostly very small dogs so not to worry. And yes, dogs are allowed on the bed in Venice in case you're wondering...

Venetian dogs will only listen to Vivaldi quartets, so don't bother playing them Debussey per favore.

This little dog is the "Kiki of Montparnasse" model favored by all Venetian painters nonstop.

BEAR and I kept bumping into this hound over...

And over...

Even in Paris a Tiepolo fresco featuring this little dog was at the musee Jacquemart-Andres.

And on the streets as well...

You might be scratching your head wondering where the heck are all the cats of Venice?

Don't ask me. I saw only one meower and I had to take the boat to Burano to catch him sunning in a doorway...

Though Gawd knows there are way too many cat masks in Venice!

BUON GIORNO DOGS OF VENICE!

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Macarons in Venice

0 comments Posted by pece at 5:19 AM

No, I did not take a gondola ride in Venice...

Laduree Macaron Boxes, art on Etsy, 9" x 11'

Nor did I find French style macarons...well not exactly.

You'd think I'd be content with all the Tiramisu floating around Venice but my tastebuds are not creamy-inclined...

These giant hazelnut-smothered cookies looked lethal to me, perhaps even weapon-like..?

A massive meringue cake filled with vanilla cream with more cream on the side to drap over it - no way!

In a pinch, one could settle for the ropes and ropes of liquirizia/liqurice lining the calle/streets of Venice...

In desperation, I bought a Venetian guidebook to help me find local pastries - there are at least 22 listed: balcoli, bussolai ciosotri, castagnole, colombina, crema frita, curasan etc., etc.

Rosa Salva is one of Venice's oldest, most revered pasticcerias in sestiere San Marco, 951, Calle Fiubera. It's a cafe as well so you can stop in for a coffee with your cantucci...

But I was not tempted...

At last I broke down and gobbled an unpronouncable sfogliatelle - a Naples specialty. Maybe I sucumbed because these are in my neighborhood in Astoria? And maybe because these are crispy?

Look! Little Nutella tartelettes. What's wrong with these you ask? Are you saying to yourselves, "picky...picky?"

All from pasticceria Toletta in sestiere Dorsodura, 1192, calle della Toletta, mentioned in the guide...

As a so-called Paris pastry (painter)expert have I been ruined for the treats of the rest of the planet? I think I have.

I do love Italian Macedonia de fruita (basically an improved version of our 'fruitcup').

And there's ALWAYS gelato for dessert. No wonder I was reduced to going on The Gelato Dieta in Venice.

And there ARE plenty of dogs in Venice (more to come on them). So what's YOUR favorite Venetian dessert? Do tell all PBers!!

I did find mini macarons at Toletta my last day in Venice...

By then I'd given up hope and missed out tasting them. They're cleverly sitting in little caissette plissee/paper cups and the cream filling inside is decoratively squiggled. At least I got this photo in passing... I'll just have to return to Venice to taste them. c'est la vie.

BUON GIORNO MACARONS IN VENEZIA